Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

[Dave Sparks]

There is not any soldering involved if you buy the unit from the link I posted. It is a quick job (less than 15 minutes) to get the system going after install.

Sanyo also states that it is the magnet in their DC motor that gives them the high SEER. The inverter just matches the load (selected) to keep a nice power factor on your AC. It would be ironic (to me) if the setting I am using was the MPPT of my array. Nah don't go there..

Thanks SG for the current read on Tax law

[icarus]

You guys are worried about ac! We had snow on Saturday,, -6c!

Tony

[Brock]

I understand your using the pool for the heat source, but I would think there is no need for both the pool and heat pump to run at the same time. The pool will takes days to rise/change in temperature, a simple relay to lock-out the pool pump when the GeoThermal is running will solve most of your issues

Right now the geo unit can only dump heat to the pool via heat exchangers on the pool circulation pump lines and the cold side of the geo unit can be fed to the furnace or field or both. I actually plumbed the pool assuming the geo unit would suck in its own pool water heat it and return it, but they plumbed it using heat exchangers where a traditional pool heater would be. So if I turn off the pool circ pump, the geo system would shut off from an over temp.

[Solar Guppy]

http://sanyohvac.com/assets/document..._71_Series.pdf


Uses flare fittings ( instead of brazing ) otherwise its standard split install ( requires vac of line )

Personally, I wouldn't use compression fitting for a 400 psi line

[Brock]

Tony, LOL

We hit our first day above 80F today :)

Dave I read that as well, the whole setup was done with compression fittings. I could do the wiring myself without any worries, but the plumbing does worry me, but compression fittings are not so bad.

So how does that work, obviously the lines are "empty" or open to the air, you connect them up and open the valves, it looks like it comes with 25 or 50 feet of tubing, how could the pressure be right? Or do they precharge them assuming a 25 foot line? Or put in enough for 50 foot line? What about bleeding the air out of those lines?

[Solar Guppy]

its in the manual link I posted how to do the setup, you make the connections, hookup a vac to the lines to get rid of all air and moisture , open the valves and use the manifold gauges to test and do your super cooling test. Its NOT connect and run

[BB.]

By the way Fujistu is heavily advertising (on radio) the last few days--First time I have noticed any split system A/C being advertised here.

Fujitstu Split System International Home Page

We been hitting ~92+F last week--this week much cooler (low 70F's).

-Bill

[Dave Sparks]

Flare fittings are fine if you torque the nuts! Most people over tighten and 6 months later they get a leak. This stuff is not rocket science. Sure the refrigerant is new but a decent vacume pump can pull a deep vacume. It really was 15 minutes and a working unit. This time does not include the install which will make your mileage vary. Ken was great. The guy's daughter was having a baby and he called back 15 minutes later.

If any of this sounds complicated you should hire a pro! The lines were empty but sealed with insulation ready to go. As I said before, and you should read my previous posts the kit that these folks provide had everything except the vacume pump, a 3 inch hole saw,PVC tape, and the rest you probably have. My HVAC guy said he will use these folks over his current supplier. The other unit I installed was so far away and remote the owner rolled the dice on warranty.

If you are offgrid, you would be crazy not to buy the heat pump option! We found out this spring that a 3 hour run in the afternoon and we did not need to light a fire in the woodstove that evening. This would not work in the dead of winter but it would help a little even then.

[PhilS]

If you are offgrid, you would be crazy not to buy the heat pump option! We found out this spring that a 3 hour run in the afternoon and we did not need to light a fire in the woodstove that evening. This would not work in the dead of winter but it would help a little even then.

Ok, for the additional $160 I guess the heat pump would be a worthwhile option. I can remember more than a few days that we only had a fire for a couple of hours to take the chill off.

Dave... do you shut down power to the unit when it's not in use, like to allow an inverter to go into search mode? I assume the power draw when off wouldn't be very large. If you do shut off power what happens when power is reapplied?

Phil

[JESSICA]

DaveSparks

"Bill is correct on the BTU at 300 watts out. I never stated that you could get 9,000 BTU from 300 watts. I wish I could! The reason I moved to a new thread was so the OP would not think this was portable as she requested. Looks like I confused her still."

I was not confused, but my English is.
Thanks for your advise!

Can you tell me this: When you start the unit, is there a spike? What I mean is this: Is it possible to start the unit with, let's say, an EXELTECH 1,100 inverter? Or does it, as with almost all a/c require a substantial initial current?

[By the way: It is not "her" but "him". "Jessica" is the name of my wife]