Re: Chest Freezer / Inver Configuration
Looks like the thermostat triggers both the freezer compressor and inverter when needed, thus keeping the inverter off and not drawing power when it isn't needed. Should work, although some inverters' on/off controls do not remove all their power draw. It may be simpler to use one that has a standby mode and let it pulse, especially as not all inverters will like being turned on with a load present on the AC (the ones designed for standby do not suffer from this; they are designed to do it).
As for the power draw it's pretty much a matter of AC power factored by inverter efficiency plus inverter draw. So if the freezer uses 120 Watts @ 120 Volts (10 Amps) and the inverter is 90% efficient that's 134 Watts @ inverter Voltage (11.6 Amps @ 12 Volts) plus inverter draw (20 Watts perhaps - another 1.6 Amps) = 13.2 Amps.
But (and it's a big one) there will be extra power consumed on start-up, additional power loss in the wiring, and the ever-present Peukart Effect on the battery which makes the current draw non-linear as the battery Voltage changes (and alters the actual capacity as power is drawn). You can come close to predicting it by rounding the consumption numbers up, as in 12 + 2 = 14 Amps at nominal 12 Volts. 33% duty cycle over 24 hours would be 112 Amp hours per day, necessitating a minimum 224 Amp hour battery bank. Or, curiously enough, a couple of standard golf cart batteries in series.
Not that I've ever done that calculation before or anything.
Four 175 Watt panels, OB MX60, 232 Amp hrs, OB 3524, Honda eu2000.
Ohm's Law: Amps = Volts / Ohms
Power Formula: Watts = Volts * Amps