Water Heater...

[icarus]

I think it is an Ontario transport reg, that they be transported up right.

O2 tanks are especially dangerous, I have seen a video of an O2 tank fall and break off the valve, sending the valve off as a projectile, with the tank going the opposit direction as a missile!

I don't worry about the "marine police". We transport in an open small boat, miles from anyone else. Only very rarely do we see MNR conservation officers looking for illegal fishing. They then emphasize PFDs. More often we see them in the winter on skidoos since they can actually get to our lake without too much trouble. Then they care about helmets on skidoo drivers!

Icarus

[waynefromnscanada]

The problem with liquid under high pressure in a sealed bottle, such as LPG, is that the valve on top, also contains the over pressure release valve, the "blow off". If the cylinder is upright and for whatever reason the pressure exceeds the limit (overfilled or over heated etc), the blow of opens and releases vapor only, dropping the pressure back to the safe zone. If that same cylinder is on it's side and the blow off lets go, two things can occur. One, instead of safely releasing vapor, it sprays liquid, which in the case of LPG, boils at minus 40 C when no longer under pressure, causing instant and severe damage to human, or any other flesh it comes in contact with. And two, the blow off is designed to release enough VAPOR to maintain safe pressure, but liquid may not pass through the blow off rapidly enough to ensure the cylinder won't get dangerously over pressured. For these reasons, it is against the law in Nova Scotia to transport propane cylinders, or any other such cylinder containing a dangerous liquid under pressure and with a blow off on the top of the cylinder, in any position other than secured in an upright position. Even if the valve gets broken off, escaping vapor from an upright cylinder produces less of a "kick" than does liquid that might be released from a cylinder on it's side.

[icarus]

Bingo, give the man a kewpie doll! That is the reason to carry tanks up right!


I believe it is a Federal (Canada) MOT rule.

Tony

[Cariboocoot]

Bingo, give the man a kewpie doll! That is the reason to carry tanks up right!


I believe it is a Federal (Canada) MOT rule.

Tony

Must be; same in NS, ONT, and BC - pretty much covers the country.

[mtdoc]

I use wood heat in the winter with water heating coils in the collection area of the "Airtight" (wood stove) , a collection tank of 40 gal that in the winter , it's the only way we heat the water. It gets hotter than the DWH , and we must either do a load of laundry, or get dirty so "we" need a shower .
It's in the summer that Im installing a split vacuum tube solar collector to work the same collection tank as the airtight use's.

VT

I'd love to hear more about your system. I'm hoping to do something similar. I currently have a standard electric hot water heater and a small electic on demand system supplying heat for closed loop in floor heating of a partial basement. None of this is backed up by my solar system for obvious reasons.

In an effort to become less reliant on our not- so - reliable grid connection, my plan is to set up a system like yours. A coil through our woodstove for the winter and solar in the summer, with on demand propane as backup. Any tips would be welcome.- especially about your wooddstove setup. There seems to be very little about how to do this on the web.

[vtmaps]

There seems to be very little about how to do this on the web.

try searching 'range boiler'
read a lot... they can explode!

A coil through our woodstove for the winter and solar in the summer, with on demand propane as backup. Any tips would be welcome.- especially about your wooddstove setup.

I have set up at least a dozen woodstove range boilers. All of my systems have been thermosiphons.

My first several systems were external to the woodstove. They worked very well, but need 2-3 feet of copper.

When I started building internal systems, I used all brass or stainless (just a 5-8 inches).

In all my systems I put pressure temperature relief valves on both input and output of the heating coil (not literally a coil).

If you have hard water, they can become obstructed.

--vtMaps

[icarus]

Proper t&p valves, and expansion tanks are essntial for a safe installation. I had one for years with a thermos siphon system, until we built he new house with its new stove. It was just too much trouble to design the system for the new stove and house, I will revisit it at some point.

Tony

[mtdoc]

Thanks for the pointers vtmaps and Icarus. Understood about the need for good pressure relief valves and the explosive potential if not done right!

I'm not sure a pure thermosiphon will work for my situation. Current utility room with current water heater and on demand boiler/expansion tank for in-floor heating is located in basement - below the wood stove. Any experience using circulating pumps?

I'm a total noob when it comes to all but the most basic plumbing.. Will need to find a plumber locally who is willing to help. I'm not sure any nearby have experience with this - and especially with combining it with solar hot water.

There's a fair number of people with woodstoves here but no where near the number as in Vermont. I love Vermont! I lived just outside of Burlington for 4 years. Nothing like burning New England hardwoods in a good Vermont Castings stove. The Doug Fir here just does not last through the night like a stove full of Vermont maple will.

[icarus]

A simple differential controller and a grunfos circ. pump will work fine. Azel l makes one for solar water heat that would work fine, as does gold line, I'm sure there are others.

http://www.azeltec.com/images/brochuredst932.pdf

https://www.hayward-pool.com/prd/Abo...5004_-1___.htm

Tony

[vtmaps]

Thanks for the pointers vtmaps and Icarus. Understood about the need for good pressure relief valves and the explosive potential if not done right!

I'm not sure a pure thermosiphon will work for my situation. Current utility room with current water heater and on demand boiler/expansion tank for in-floor heating is located in basement - below the wood stove. Any experience using circulating pumps?

I have no experience with pumps. You could do a 'hybrid' system... thermosiphon to a tank by the stove and use a pump to move hot water from it to the basement tank. If the tank by the stove is uninsulated you will add a measure of safety to the system because if the pump fails the uninsulated tank will be a radiator. If you size it right the fire will go out before the pressure-temp valve blows.

--vtMaps